This superb Condrieu, just slightly off-dry yet fresh, offers a marvelous concentration of fruit that shows many different facets: pear tart, apricot, honey, toast, spice, cream and dried prune. Long, toasty finish. Drink now through 2010. 1,250 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Condrieu Select to Add

The 1997 Condrieu offers a tell-tale orange skin, honeysuckle, and apricot-scented nose with floral notes in the background. Ripe, honeyed, full-bodied, and loaded with fruit, this soft, fleshy wine should be enjoyed over the next year. Importer: An Alain Corcia Selection (telephone number in France, 011 33 3 80 24 93 72); various American importers

Georges Vernay, who had to relinquish the title of "Mr. Condrieu" to Marcel Guigal, since the latter proprietor now produces more Condrieu than anyone else, has fashioned three solid efforts in the difficult 1996 vintage. The 1996 Condrieu is an understated, acidic wine with medium body, some elegance, and a lemony, citrusy character that is atypical of this cuvee. It should provide correct drinking for 1-2 years. All of the 1996s from Vernay exhibit more of a grapefruit character than is normally found in these wines. It appears that in vintages where there are immature flavors, these Condrieus possess an apricot and peach-like fruit, whereas in years of less ripeness, there is more of a honeyed citrus and grapefruit-like personality. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620

Dominated by oak, this heavy white shows vanilla and coconut flavors with little varietal character. It's simple and a bit dull.??–null??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Condrieu Select to Add

The 1995 Condrieu exhibits crisp, tart acidity, medium body, and ripe honeysuckle and apricot fruit that are presented in a restrained format. The wine's acidity will keep it fresh and lively, but there is not as much depth as I would prefer. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620