Georges Vernay, who had to relinquish the title of "Mr. Condrieu" to Marcel Guigal, since the latter proprietor now produces more Condrieu than anyone else, has fashioned three solid efforts in the difficult 1996 vintage.
The 1996 Condrieu is an understated, acidic wine with medium body, some elegance, and a lemony, citrusy character that is atypical of this cuvee. It should provide correct drinking for 1-2 years.
All of the 1996s from Vernay exhibit more of a grapefruit character than is normally found in these wines. It appears that in vintages where there are immature flavors, these Condrieus possess an apricot and peach-like fruit, whereas in years of less ripeness, there is more of a honeyed citrus and grapefruit-like personality.
Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620
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