Additional élevage has brought a further degree of elegance to the 2020 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru that I didn't perceive last year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, incense, licorice, forest floor and smoked duck, it's full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional, with an unusually polished, suave profile for a just-bottled Mazis-Chambertin from this address. Of course, it remains a brooding, concentrated wine that will require patience, but Lo?c Dugat-Py seems to have unlocked an additional layer of sensuality and refinement for this cuvée with the 2020 vintage.

The 2019 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is considerably more demonstrative from bottle than it was from barrel. Mingling aromas of wild berries and plums with notions of peonies, blood orange, exotic spices, incense and crushed mint, it's full-bodied, velvety and layered, with immense depth and concentration, lively acids, beautifully ripe tannins and a long, resonant finish. More seamless and less primordial than the brilliant 2018, the two wines are very close in quality but quite different in style.

Wild and carnal, the 2018 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru offers up an incipiently complex bouquet of cassis and cherries mingled with nuances of coniferous forest floor, smoked meats, violets and licorice. Full-bodied, multidimensional and searingly concentrated, it's layered and muscular, with a deep, textural, richly tannic profile that's already seamlessly integrated: the only missing ingredient is time.

As usual, the 2017 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is more introverted and wild than the Charmes-Chambertin, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, potpourri, peonies, bitter chocolate and forest floor. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, tight-knit and intensely concentrated core that's framed by fine, powdery tannins and lively acids. Though this is a magical wine in the making, displaying huge intensity without weight and combining pure fruit with carnal nuance in compelling fashion, this is one 2017 red Burgundy that is emphatically built for the long haul, and it should only be purchased by the patient.