Deep and complex, Dugat-Py's 2005 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark wild berries, cinnamon, rose petals, violets, dark chocolate and grilled venison. Full-bodied, rich and layered, it's concentrated and complete, framed by exquisitely powdery structuring tannins. While this is still a little on the young side it's not at all austere and is evolving very gracefully.

From 65-year-old vines whose 100 cases worth of fruit Dugat didn’t de-stem, the 2005 Mazis-Chambertin displays even more intensity, yet also elegance than the Charmes. Aromas of black cherry, purple plum, sassafras, vanilla, and violets usher in a palate of sumptuous richness, intense sweet purity of black fruits with a caramel edge, and layers of raw and roasted meat and chalky, stony minerality. This offers incredible lift and refinement for a wine of such ripeness and sheer density and the finish seems to defy gravity. (Dugat’s 2004 Mazis displays amazing intensity, meatiness and grip for its vintage and is worth the proverbial search of the marketplace and a place in one’s cellar.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.