The 2002 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru from Dugat-Py is hauntingly good, wafting from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, aromas of wild berries, potpourri and peony mingling with subtle bass notes of grilled venison and rich soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its tannins fine-grained and velvety and its acids cool and succulent, a creamy, voluminous attack giving way to a precise, brightly focused finish of immense length. The inherent elegance of the 2002 vintage synergies with the rather wild and "sauvage" terroir of Mazis-Chambertin to brilliant effect, and though this is a bit more reserved than the 2002 Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin that was served alongside it, the Mazis already makes for very suave, stylish drinking.

The masculine, firm, and deep 2002 Mazis-Chambertin explodes from the glass with profound aromas of chocolate, blackberry jam, cassis liqueur, and black cherry paste. This monstrously powerful wine assaults the palate with waves of velvety black fruits, tar, licorice, and Asian spices. Hyper-ripe yet structured and balanced, it displays copious quantities of tannin in its exceptionally long, intense finish. Projected maturity: 2009-2025. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800