The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles reveals aromas of wild blueberries and blackberries mingled with dark chocolate, sweet spices and violets. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with a taut, incisive profile that reflects its hillside origins, this concentrated, vibrant red Burgundy will richly reward patience.

One of the high points of the range is the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with aromas of plums and wild berries mingled with orange rind, exotic spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, deep and intense, its velvety attack segues into a layered, vibrant mid-palate that's built around a bright spine of acidity, concluding with a long, mineral finish.

Tightly wound after its recent bottling, Dugat-Py's 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles unfurls in the glass with enticing aromas of peonies, wild berries, orange rind and spices, deftly framed by a judicious application of (50%) new oak. Medium to full-bodied, bright and elegantly muscular, with a concentrated, almost introverted core that's framed by powdery tannins, it concludes with a long, mineral finish.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles is showing spectacularly well from bottle, soaring from the glass with aromas of dark wild berries, grilled meats, woodsmoke, rich soil tones and espresso roast. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, built around fine, powdery tannins and a racy spine of acidity, concluding with a long and precise finish. More mineral and incisive than the broader, more muscular Coeur du Roy, this Evocelles is defined by its stony hillside terroir.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles is a stunning young wine, unfurling in the glass with notes of violets, rose petals, Griotte cherries, wild berries and subtly savory nuances of forest floor and smoke. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a vibrant line of acidity, an immensely layered mid-palate that conceals a chassis of velvety structuring tannin, and incredible length on the precise, mineral finish. To my mind, this cool and stony hillside site in Brochon is a de facto premier cru, and it always produces a finer, more tensile wine than the fleshier, heartier renditions of Gevrey that emerge from the terroirs that sit in the village's alluvial fan. While my drinking window reflects my sense of the optimal time to pull corks, readers looking for an insight into the direction being taken by the Domaine Dugat-Py could do worse than try a bottle in its infancy.