The dark ruby-colored 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, crafted from 70-year-old vines that only produced 18 hectoliters per hectare (and harvested at 13% natural potential alcohol) has a wild herb, candle wax, and blackberry-scented nose. This chewy-textured, medium-bodied wine reveals blackberries, black currants, freshly laid asphalt, and loads of sweet, ripe tannin in its highly expressive character. Drink it over the next 7 years. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.