From 70-year-old vines in a stony, high-elevation site north of Champeaux come Dugat’s 150 cases worth of 20 hecto./ha. 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles. This smells of ripe but bitter-sweet black cherry, wood smoke, and overt chalk and saline minerality. Coming onto the palate with superb fruit intensity, glycerine richness, and silkiness of texture, it finishes with the clarity, purity, refinement and freshness of fruit as well as the multiplicity of mineral shadings (salt, chalk, wet stone, iodine ... ?) that one anticipates from a great Riesling. (Despite Les Evocelles having been hailed on in 2004, this wine is one of Dugat’s more refined and juicy from that vintage.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

From 70-year-old vines in a stony, high-elevation site north of Champeaux come Dugat’s 150 cases worth of 20 hecto./ha. 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles. This smells of ripe but bitter-sweet black cherry, wood smoke, and overt chalk and saline minerality. Coming onto the palate with superb fruit intensity, glycerine richness, and silkiness of texture, it finishes with the clarity, purity, refinement and freshness of fruit as well as the multiplicity of mineral shadings (salt, chalk, wet stone, iodine ... ?) that one anticipates from a great Riesling. (Despite Les Evocelles having been hailed on in 2004, this wine is one of Dugat’s more refined and juicy from that vintage.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.