Bernard Dugat works the 70-75 year old vines in this vineyard with an en metayage (sharecropping) arrangement. This parcel had drastically low 18 hectoliters/hectare yields in 1996. It displays a dark ruby color with complex aromas of boysenberries. With its brambleberries strongly spiced with freshly cracked black pepper, this wine has an unbelievably deep, intense, and concentrated personality, as well as superb precision to its candied blackberry, cassis liqueur, and blueberry-crammed flavor profile and extremely long finish. This behemoth will require patience due to its firm and highly-structured backbone. Projected maturity: 2003-2008.
Bernard Dugat, with the assistance of his charming wife, son, and daughter, has fashioned extraordinary 1996s, nothing new for this family who, since the 1993 vintage, has been crafting some of Burgundy's finest wines.
As I left Dugat-Py's cellars (her maiden name is Py and they added it to the estate's name to differentiate themselves from Bernard's famous cousin Claude) I felt that while his 1996's were superb, his 1995s were even better. With reflection, and with my notes from both tastings in hand, I realize that it comes down to the specific wines. Certain terroirs performed better in '95, and others in '96, most probably due to the weather which dramatically cut back yields in 1995
Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.