The full-bodied 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere is an assemblage of 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah, all aged in foudre. Ripe, rich and full-bodied, it delivers waves of chocolate, mocha and black raspberries, finishing long and velvety.

Hints of garrigue and crushed stones are bound together by threads of raspberries and dark chocolate in the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere, which is largely derived from old-vine Grenache grown in La Crau. Full-bodied, generous and silky in texture, it's a ripe, seamless effort that should drink well for up to a decade.

Less obviously ahead of the Clos du Calvaire than it was last year out of foudre, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere still delivers almost embryonic waves of fruit—cherries, raspberries and blueberries. Full-bodied, supple and silky, with a long, slightly briny finish, it comes across as a bit simple because of its youth. If it develops additional complexity in bottle, my rating may look stingy.

Old-vine Grenache from La Crau meets Mourvèdre from Pignan in the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere—the most limited of the company's cuvées. Hints of rose petals and black tea accent raspberry and apricot fruit in this full-bodied, richly tannic but velvety wine. Give it a couple of years' cellaring and drink it over the next decade and a half.

The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere is another top-flight effort in this stunning vintage for Mayard. If I didn't detect a touch of warmth on the finish of this wine, I would've rated it higher because it boasts stunning aromas of blueberries and licorice, ample concentration, supple tannins and a long, spicy finish.