The best of the group is the 2004 La Crau de Ma Mere, which is full-bodied, has more opulence, deeper fruit, but loads of black cherry and licorice notes intertwined with hints of seaweed, roasted herbs, and smoke. It is a real beauty. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. As I have written in the past, all three cuvees from Pere Pape are Provencal in their typicity. In short, they are up-front and delicious, with forward fruit and plenty of character/personality. I don’t think they will make old bones by any means, as they are clearly designed for immediate consumption, or aging for up to a decade in the case of their top cuvee, Le Crau de Ma Mere. The 2004s have turned out to be richly fruity, forward wines of medium weight as well as pure, spicy, and heady.Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Compared to the more ripe and concentrated 2005 and 2006, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere shows a cool climate style in its peppery, spice, pine resin and darker fruit profile. Fully mature, with bright acidity, medium-bodied richness and a fresh, lively style, I would drink bottles over the coming couple of years, but the bright acidity will allow it to hold for longer.