From a vintage that I find to be pretty much fully mature across board today, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape la Crau de Ma Mere offers a gorgeously sweet perfume of garrigue, currants, framboise and spice to go with a full-bodied, generously layered and downright sexy style on the palate. It's surprisingly youthful, has sweet tannin and should continue putting a smile on your face for another 5-6 years, although there's no need to delay gratification and this puppy is ready to go.

The 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau de Ma Mere is classic Provencal wine. A huge peppery nose followed by tapenade notes interwoven with almost over-ripe plum, cherry, and currant soar from the glass. In the mouth it is dense, heady, voluptuous, with layers of fruit and a sumptuous, full-bodied, even blockbuster finish that is all silk. Drink it over the next decade.Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153