Including an appreciable percentage of vines planted in the 1920s, Clair's 2021 Marsannay les Longeroies was late going through its malolactic fermentation, meaning it was among the more backward wines in the cellar when I visited. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, dark wild berries and coniferous forest floor, it's medium-bodied, supple and seamless, with lively acids and fine, chalky tannins.

The 2016 Marsannay les Longeroies has a much more fragrant and fruit-driven bouquet than the Grasses Têtes, red cherries and wild strawberry fruit to the fore. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp and chalky tannin. This feels reassuringly focused and delivers a saline finish that leaves you wanting more. Fine.

The 2015 Marsannay Les Longeroies offers enticing aromas of redcurrant juice, cranberry and cold stone on the nose that is well defined and complex. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, well-integrated oak, fine depth towards the sorbet-fresh finish. Hints of orange sorbet linger on the aftertaste, completing a quite delicious Marsannay, the best produced by Bruno this year.

The 2014 Marsannay les Longeroies is a big step up in terms of aromatic complexity from the Longeroies with ebullient blackberry and raspberry, light cola notes, the oak neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, fine tannin with satisfying tension towards the finish. I like the weight and focus, the way it channels its energy and I suspect it will lie at the top of my score bracket once in bottle.

The 2013 Marsannay les Longeroies has the most flamboyant and expressive bouquet of the three Marsannay crus: very pure and defined with floral scents developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure and mineralité, quite edgy with a long persistent, stony finish. Excellent.