From the estate's oldest vines, the Clair 2006 Marsannay Les Longeroies is firm and tannic in comparison with the Vaudenelles, but these are fine-grained tannins when compared with those of the corresponding Grasse Tetes. Lilac and fresh cherry in the nose lead to a refreshingly red-fruited palate, underlain by suggestions of chalk. Hints of bitter cherry pit and herbs in the finish lend an invigorating note. This should be fun to follow for 3-4 years. Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun have a battery of 1,500 liter upright fermentation casks as well as larger ovals, which permit more wines to depart small barrels sooner but not have to go into tanks. And in 2006 (or for that matter 2007), they concurred that preservation of fruit and preventing the wood from drying it out were paramount considerations. (In fact, the Marsannay cuvees were still not yet bottled when I last tasted them in the Spring of 2008.) Picking here, by the way, lasted from September 23 through October 4, and the results certainly speak emphatically for themselves. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802