About the 2005 Marsannay Les Longeroies – which had been assembled in fuder – I had no such reservations. Bright, sappy, and brisk in its fruit character, tinged with salty, chalky minerals and attractively bitter cherry pit, this at the same time displays an incipient creaminess of texture and firm, well-integrated tannins that do not prevent an impression of sleekness and refinement emerging in the finish. This has plenty of ripe fruit acidity, tannin and energy in reserve. I’d love to check it out after it has rested from bottling, but it would no doubt repay a few years in the cellar. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802