The 2011 Barolo Sorano is slow to open. Once it does, it offers a wide scope of wild berry, spice and licorice-like aromas. The Sorano cru is located in Serralunga d'Alba and this wine delivers the extra strength, concentration and power that you should expect of this beautiful Barolo subzone. This Barolo will continue its evolution over the next ten years.

Thickly concentrated and opulent, the 2010 Barolo Sorano (with fruit from Serralunga d’Alba) shows sweet tannins, lingering spice aromas with bold fruit, prune and blackberry preserves. There’s a touch of barbecue smoke and honey-cured meat to round off the finish. Drink: 2016-2028. Claudio Alario presented two wines this year. His Barolo Riva Rocca sees fruit sourced from Verduno and Sorano comes from vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. He tends to harvest later than others (in 2010, he started taking fruit off the vines on October 20) in order to avoid any lingering tannic greenness. Claudio compares 2010 to other vintages like 1995 and 2008 that resulted in fine, compact and elegant wines. He also voices a preference for vintages, like 2009, that resulted in wines with greater structure and endurance compared to 2010. Importer: Il Pioppo Selection, www.il-pioppo.com

The 2009 Barolo Sorano, on the other hand, drinks like a very different wine. Serralunga d’Alba is known for structured Nebbiolo, and this wine appears more grounded and balanced in terms of its use of oak. The tighter fabric of the fruit is better poised to absorb any excessive spice, tobacco and cured leather. This wine is slower to express itself in the glass and there is some youthful oak bitterness that will take a few extra years to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Seven wines for seven vineyard crus is the mantra carried forth by Claudio Alario. With tips from his friend and mentor Roberto Voerzio, Claudio began bottling his production in 1988 and today counts ten hectares of vineyard planted to site-specific expressions of Dolcetto, Barbara and Nebiolo. His success has, without a doubt, helped to raise awareness and appreciation of Dolcetto Diano d’Alba (the lesser-known Dolcetto subzone). I have reviewed six of those wines here. Importer: Il Pioppo Selection, Dulles, VA; tel. (703) 466-0446

Barolo Sorano (from the Serralunga d’Alba area) is an impressive wine with big color and extraction followed by aromas of cherry liqueur, spice, vanilla, clove and ginger. The wine is chewy and succulent in the mouth with firm tannins that will soften with time. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 94

The 2005 Barolo Sorano, from a vineyard in Serralunga, reveals a darker, weightier profile than the Riva, with pretty notes of vibrant dark cherries, licorice, new leather and menthol. The wine shows superb persistence on the palate, and a long, polished finish. This is a terrific effort from Claudio Alario. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Claudio Alario’s 2005 Barolos are gorgeous; in fact they may very well be the finest Barolos he has ever made. In 2005 Alario harvested earlier than normal and his wines possess an extra degree of freshness that is quite appealing. The use of French oak is also much more measured, which allows for the qualities of the fruit to shine through. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411