The 2009 Barolo Sorano, on the other hand, drinks like a very different wine. Serralunga d’Alba is known for structured Nebbiolo, and this wine appears more grounded and balanced in terms of its use of oak. The tighter fabric of the fruit is better poised to absorb any excessive spice, tobacco and cured leather. This wine is slower to express itself in the glass and there is some youthful oak bitterness that will take a few extra years to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Seven wines for seven vineyard crus is the mantra carried forth by Claudio Alario. With tips from his friend and mentor Roberto Voerzio, Claudio began bottling his production in 1988 and today counts ten hectares of vineyard planted to site-specific expressions of Dolcetto, Barbara and Nebiolo. His success has, without a doubt, helped to raise awareness and appreciation of Dolcetto Diano d’Alba (the lesser-known Dolcetto subzone). I have reviewed six of those wines here. Importer: Il Pioppo Selection, Dulles, VA; tel. (703) 466-0446