The deep ruby/plum-tinged, spicy 2009 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone offers hints of sweet boysenberry, black cherry, licorice and incense. Elegant and full-bodied with a heady concoction of fruit and glycerin, it can be enjoyed for 15 or more years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don-t win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 2008 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone exhibits road tar, roasted herb, bouquet garni, meat juice, black cherry and berry notes, medium body, and silky tannins. It should drink nicely for 7-10 years. Rayas has one of the most unusual terroirs in Chateauneuf du Pape with sandy soils and a more northerly oriented exposure. To understand these wines, one must realize that this is a cool-climate terroir in a warm appellation. Emmanuel Reynaud, the nephew of the late Jacques Reynaud, has now been the sole winemaker and administrator here for 13 vintages and he appears to have settled in comfortably. His 2009s have turned out well in this challenging, drought plagued vintage. The white wines are always intriguing. In some vintages they are absolutely spectacular as well as long-lived and in others they are somewhat bizarre with a tendency to oxidize. 2009 appears to be a top-flight year for the whites. I tasted the 2009 reds from an assortment of small barrels, demi-muids and foudres and putting together a score range takes some degree of extrapolation based on seeing all these different component parts.Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 2007 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone is outstanding. Revealing plenty of licorice, tapenade, black cherry, and raspberry characteristics in its lovely, rich, medium to full-bodied personality, it can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. 2007 may be Emmanuel Reynaud’s greatest vintage since he took over the management of this estate when his uncle, Jacques Reynaud, died in 1997.Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400