The 1989 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone is a beautifully made, seductive mouthful of wine. It is all velvet and silk, and there is a whopping degree of alcohol in the finish. Along with the huge 1990, it appears to be the finest Fonsalette since the late 1970s. The tannin is soft and the acidity is low, yet the wine's concentration and magical flavors (over-ripe, jammy cherries, truffles, grilled meats, and thyme) are dazzling. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.
Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300