The 1998 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone is dark ruby/purple-tinged and tannic . The attack and mid-palate reveal rich, concentrated, peppery, earthy fruit. Most readers would probably assume the Cotes du Rhone will be ready to drink at an early age, but this full-bodied, dense, structured 1998 requires 3-4 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400