The 2010 Pinot Grigio Unterebner was aged in oak, which adds quite a bit of volume and texture, but also marks the flavor profile to a significant degree. It is a shame to cover the distinctiveness of Alto Adige here. Ultimately, the oak has flattened much of the varietal and regional character. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. It's hard to go wrong with any of these wines from Tramin, one of the best and most consistent wineries in Italy. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2009 Pinot Grigio Unterebner emerges from the glass with layers of rich, expressive fruit. The Unterebner is usually much more varietally expressive, but in 2009 it is uncharacteristically lush and almost tropical in its fruit. Roughly 20% of the wine is aged in small French oak barrels, which contribute additional texture and volume. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

If you like aromatic expressions of Pinot Grigio, look for a wine from the Alto Adige appellation like this wine from Tramin. Cool-climate winemaking tends to add layers of peach and almond blossom beyond characteristic aromas of apple and pear. The mouthfeel here is creamy and rich.——M.L.(11/1/2010)—— 89