The 2010 Pinot Grigio Unterebner was aged in oak, which adds quite a bit of volume and texture, but also marks the flavor profile to a significant degree. It is a shame to cover the distinctiveness of Alto Adige here. Ultimately, the oak has flattened much of the varietal and regional character. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. It's hard to go wrong with any of these wines from Tramin, one of the best and most consistent wineries in Italy. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Pinot Grigio Unterebner offers a beautiful contrast between cool-climate aromas of white flower and passion fruit and spicy, oak-driven aromas of vanilla and cinnamon bun. Pair this wine with a savory appetizer strudel filled with spinach, cheese and pine nuts.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 90