This wine has gone from being part of the Alto Adige DOC to the Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT appellation. The Alois Lageder 2020 Pinot Grigio Porer (an organic and biodynamic wine with an ample 60,000 bottles produced) shows a slightly copperish color that suggests some brief skin contact. It has an oxidative and sweet-smelling bouquet with honey, apple blossom and candied lemon peel. Its consistency is lean, but there is mild honey-like richness on the mid-palate. Fruit comes from Magrè and Salorno, and the wine is partially oak-fermented and partially aged in oak (and stainless steel) on the lees for nine months.

Aged partly in steel and partly in big wooden barrels, the 2019 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Porer (an organic and biodynamic wine) shows tinges of amber and copper that make for a so-called "ramato" styled white (or rosé). The bouquet is expressive and bright with peach, ripe apple and a spicy hint of curry leaf or saffron. The lean-bodied wine shows good depth and dimension and ends with extra structure and a drying hint of crushed mineral. You might pair it with a shrimp étouffée.

The Alois Lageder 2018 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Porer represents a blend of separate vinifications. Some of the wine saw a classic fermentation with spontaneous yeasts, and a second part saw a good 15 hours of skin contact. That skin maceration has created a pretty golden color with very faint copper highlights. Fruit is drawn from organic and biodynamic vineyards, which is particularly impressive when you consider this is a 71,000-bottle production. Meyer lemon and bergamot appear on the bouquet. Those citrus tones are followed by mature peach and poached apple. This is a medium-weight Pinot Grigio to pair with stuffed eggplant.

The 2017 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Porer achieves a beautiful balance between a floral and tropical set of aromas on the one hand, carefully contrasted against sharper citrusy aromas on the other. In between, you get touches of crushed stone and mineral. This is a great summer-drinking wine with loads of personality and a dry, zesty finish. Part of the wine was fermented off the skins, another part saw 15 hours of skin maceration and a third part was fermented with both skins and stems. These three components were assembled and aged on the fine lees, partially in steel and partially in large oak casks. Production is an ample 57,333 bottles. This Northern Italian white offers great value.

Alois Lageder is one of the ultimate Alto Adige artisans. The organic and biodynamic 2016 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio Porer is a fresh and zesty white with preserved lemon, honeydew melon and white peach. There is a zesty, almost spicy note on the close that recalls dried basil or garden mint. Flint and crushed mineral give the wine dry focus and delineation. Those raw Pinot Grigio elements are downplayed in this vintage and replaced with finessed and delicate aromas. The finish is lean and steely. The wine is aged on the fine lees in both stainless steel and large oak casks. Some 56,000 bottles were produced.