The 2009 Nerello Mascalese Il Monovitigno is laced with flint and shaved lead pencil with tight aromas of dried fruit and black currant. The wine is exceptionally focused and tight with a sharp, forthcoming delivery. This is one of the best expressions of the grape available today. Fruit is sourced from three vineyard sites at various points of the Etna volcanic cone that range from 450 to 800 meters above sea level. Uncork this wine two or three hours before serving. Drink 2015-2022. Benanti has led efforts to raise Etna to the winemaking heights it enjoys today. Back when the notion of Contrade (Etna subzones) was a hazily defined fledgling idea, the Benanti family was carefully experimenting with indigenous grapes planted at various altitudes and locations on the massive cone of the volcano. The modern success of Etna wine is unquestionably linked to the hard work and innovation underway at Benanti. Importers: Cream Wine Company, www.creamwine.com; Wine Warehouse, www.winewarehouse.com; Tavolo Vigneto, www.tavolovigneto.com; Tradizione Imports, www.tradizioneimports.com; Zancanella Importing Co., www.zancanellaimporting.com; www.Lyrawine.com

The 2006 Nerello Mascalese Il Monovitigno is outrageous. Mint, flowers and sweet perfumed cherries are just some of the nuances that emerge from this textured, silky red. Deceptively medium in body, the wine blossoms on the palate with exquisite detail, clarity and freshness, all of which lead to a round and utterly harmonious finish. Readers who want to discover the virtues of Nerello Mascalese may want to start here. This is a gem of a wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Lamoremio that is already a touch forward and probably not built for the long haul. Still, it should drink beautifully for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Benanti is a reference-point producer for beautiful wines from the Etna and Pachino, two of Sicily’s most privileged spots. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these new releases. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2005 Nerello Mascalese Il Monovitigno captures the essence of this great indigenous variety in its striking perfume and deep layers of dark fruit. This fresh, incredibly vivid wine possesses tons of clarity in a layered, pure style of breathtaking beauty. Ideally the wine needs a few years in the cellar to develop the full range of tertiary aromas and flavors, but it is incredibly beautiful today. The wine should be opened at least 30 minutes prior to serving, as it needs some air to gain focus and blow off some small imperfections. Still, this is a captivating wine from Benanti. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Nerello Mascalese, a grape native to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, delivers fresh berry notes that recall raspberry, blueberry and mulberry backed by toasted almond. There are pretty mineral nuances woven within its texture and the wine ends with polished tannins and menthol freshness. It is aged 12 months in oak, but you hardly taste the wood.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 88

The estate’s 2001 Nerello Mascalese is another lovely bottle. It has acquired early tertiary notes of leather, tobacco and menthol that complement its core of perfumed fruit. Silky tannins add a further measure of elegance to this noble, pure wine of exquisite grace. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524