The estate’s 2001 Nerello Mascalese is another lovely bottle. It has acquired early tertiary notes of leather, tobacco and menthol that complement its core of perfumed fruit. Silky tannins add a further measure of elegance to this noble, pure wine of exquisite grace. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524