The 2005 Nerello Mascalese Il Monovitigno captures the essence of this great indigenous variety in its striking perfume and deep layers of dark fruit. This fresh, incredibly vivid wine possesses tons of clarity in a layered, pure style of breathtaking beauty. Ideally the wine needs a few years in the cellar to develop the full range of tertiary aromas and flavors, but it is incredibly beautiful today. The wine should be opened at least 30 minutes prior to serving, as it needs some air to gain focus and blow off some small imperfections. Still, this is a captivating wine from Benanti. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Nerello Mascalese, a grape native to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, delivers fresh berry notes that recall raspberry, blueberry and mulberry backed by toasted almond. There are pretty mineral nuances woven within its texture and the wine ends with polished tannins and menthol freshness. It is aged 12 months in oak, but you hardly taste the wood.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 88