The 2008 Dehesa Gago is 100% Tempranillo from Toro aged in stainless steel. It is deep crimson-colored with an expressive nose of spicy black fruits, Asian spices, incense, and violets. Ripe and tasty, this superb value is all about pleasure; Drink it over the next 4-5 years. The talented Telmo Rodriguez makes a wide range of high quality wines from both ends of the price spectrum. Importer: Michael Quinttus, Vintus Wines; www.vintuswines.com

Disappointing given Telmo Rodriguez’s overall track record. Dehesa Gago 2008 is jumpy, sweaty and stemmy smelling, with weedy, burnt, acrid flavors. Green, hard and bitter on the back end, with a candied sweetness. Try as we might, we can’t find the higher level in this Toro red. ——M.S.(6/1/2010)—— 83