This venerable winery, which has thirty years of history (long by California standards), has turned out a bevy of new releases. The 2004 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard boasts a deep ruby/purple color along with seductive, sweet aromas of black raspberries, black cherries, spring flowers, and spice. It possesses beautiful red and black fruits, good acidity, full body, and more tannin, but less spice than the Reed cuvee. This complex, fruit-driven Pinot Noir will benefit from 1-3 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 10-15 years. Tel. (831) 637-9170; Fax (831) 637-9070

The heat of the vintage took its toll, giving us a soft, melted wine whose deficit of acidity makes the superripe cherry and raspberry flavors taste syrupy sweet. There’s no getting around this problem, even though the wine is not without its charms. Drink now.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 85