One of the better red wine bargains in California is the Le Mistral, a Rhone Ranger blend usually consisting of at least 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, and the balance Syrah, Petite Sirah, and occasionally Carignan and Alicante. Both the 1994 and 1995 are outstanding efforts, as well as noteworthy buys at $18. The 1994 reveals a deep ruby/purple color, a spicy, black-raspberry, sweet, fragrant nose, medium to full-bodied, tannic, peppery flavors, and excellent purity and ripeness. Qualitatively, it tastes like a $25-$30 wine. Moreover, it is accessible, yet capable of lasting and perhaps improving for another 5-7 years. Phelps was one of the first California wineries to recognize the potential for Mediterranean-styled white and red wines (the so-called Rhone Ranger blends) that have become popular with not only consumers, but many restaurants specializing in the cuisines of Italy, France, Spain, or a combination thereof. This winery's Mistral series has never been better, as evidenced by the efforts emerging from Phelps during the 1990s. Moreover, prices remain reasonable, which is commendable given the 20%-30% price hikes by just about every California winery with each new vintage.
Joseph Phelps' winemaker, Craig Williams, was enthusiastic about the potential quality of the 1996 vintage, and at the same time, lamented the fact that yields were down once again, with production for the Cabernet Sauvignon off 10%-25% from the relatively modest yields of 1995. As I have indicated in past issues, this winery has been on top of its game since the 1991 vintage, turning out a bevy of top-notch Cabernets, along with their increasingly popular Vin de Mistral wines. Current and upcoming releases continue to reflect a commitment to high quality and innovative thinking.
Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831