The 2007 Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese blends lemon and grapefruit with peaches and cream for a harmonious, caressing yet refreshing performance full of subtly savory, spicy, and stony mineral notes. This displays the sort of elegance and balance for which the name “Grunhaus” has so long stood, and I anticipate the quarter-century or more of positive evolution that could also be taken for granted from this estate at Auslese level from the late ‘70s to the late ‘90s. I wrote about vintages 2005 and 2006 in Carl von Schubert’s and cellar master and vineyard manager Stefan Kraml’s hands as representing a return to the traditional Grunhaus excellence, because their wines performed quite well despite manifest vintage limitations. In 2007, the weather was far more cooperative, and the von Schubert collection – harvested over a 20 day period, leisurely compared with the pressures of 2006 – is the finest from any of the “big five” growers who collectively practically exhaust the Ruwer’s remaining top-class acreage. For the most part, they illustrate impeccable balance and clarity, and at their best reach the exhilarating level one would a dozen or more years ago have routinely anticipated at this address under favorable meteorological circumstances. Grunhaus has moved to practicing almost entirely spontaneous fermentations, which von Schubert sees as tending to moderate acidity but also “to achieve a less efficient yield of alcohol” from a given level of sugar, “which is an advantage nowadays just as it was a disadvantage in earlier times.” He was, incidentally, honestly taken-aback a decade or so ago – and was not the only estate owner to experience such a realization – to learn that the ancient, slow-growing, slate-rooted oaks being harvested from his considerable forest and sold at rapidly ascending prices were ultimately destined for prestigious French barrel-makers. The esteemed Nahe-based cooper Horsch has since been commissioned to gradually construct barrels for the Grunhaus from ancient Grunhauser Wald oaks, and von Schubert said he welcomes a time when wood will dominate over tanks in his cellar, although not only cost factors but also the sensitivity of Riesling to new wood preclude a pace more rapid than two or three new casks per year.Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel (918) 622-0424

Lighter in body and sweeter-tasting than the Abstberg Auslese 0, the regular auslese is almost delicate by comparison, featuring slatey, minerally notes to go alongside hints of honey, lime and orange. Finishes long and citrusy, with a dry mineral edge to help balance the sweetness.——J.C.(8/1/2009)—— 91