Roulot's 1998 Meursault Les Luchets reveals citrus fruit scents in a core of minerals, lemon juice, and stones. An elegant, lace-like, focused wine, it has excellent grip and purity. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

Tension-building Meursault, with lots of nervous energy. Mouthpuckering acidity cuts through the marble fat of this rich and ripe, medium-bodied, toasty, spicy Chardonnay, providing poles of elegant attraction from start to finish. Drink now through 2008. 320 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Burgundy / Meursault Select to Add