The 2012 Carodorum único comes in a heavy, oversized bottle and with an equally bulky price tag, but the wine is not as massive as you might expect. There are flowers, blood oranges and red berry aromas under the thick layer of spicy and smokey notes, which make it quite attractive. It's sourced from a single plot of vines planted 98 years ago on sandy soils with plenty of rolling stones; it fermented in small, 500-liter vats and matured in new barriques for 30 months. Again, the oak treatment sounds oversized, but the wine has plenty of natural strength and concentration, and seems to be able to take it. This is a Sumo wrestler. Hold it a bit for the edges to get polished. 1,390 bottles produced.