Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, the 1895 Montrose, which had been bottled by the Cruse family, was a marvelous 121-year-old Claret that had ambitions beyond offering mere curiosity value. No, this wants to give pleasure. The appearance is commensurate with its age: a wide tawny rim with a mahogany core, though clear in color (always a good omen). The bouquet is entrancing: decayed red fruit, autumn leaves, orange zest and a note of something I can only align with the taste of Lucozade, the medicinal fizzy drink loved by bug-stricken kids. What is interesting is how over a period of 15-20 minutes it does not oxidize at all, in fact, it actually evolves and gains length, almost adding to its ferrous finish that is so harmonious and elegant. Hervé Berland, managing director of the estate, was as bewitched as I think everyone was by this 19th century Saint Estèphe. Just sublime. Tasted June 2016.
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