Gorgeous depth and polish make the 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard a standout. With a purity to the fruit that is compelling, this is a bolder, more fruit-forward style than the Melville. Today, the full range of aromatic nuances has yet to develop, but I see tremendous promise here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com