Rhone Ranger enthusiasts will go bonkers over the three splendid Syrahs from the 1995 vintage. The profound 1995 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard makes me think that Syrah may do better in selected Santa Barbara micro-climates than Pinot Noir. This killer Syrah boasts an opaque black/purple color, and an awesome nose of smoke, licorice, Asian spices, and black fruits. Some pain grille notes are present, but they play an accessory role to the wine's cassis-like jamminess. Full-bodied, with superb delineation, this layered, textured, thick yet beautifully balanced, dense Syrah should be at its best by the turn of the century, and last for 15 years. The Ojai Vineyard has been producing excellent to outstanding wines over recent years, and they seem intent on climbing to the top of California's qualitative pyramid. Their new releases are - at the minimum - distinctive, delicious, and impressive. Tel. (805) 649-1674