The tannin level of the dense 1997 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard (made primarily from such clones as Mount Eden and Pommard) is scary, and I am not sure it will ever become completely integrated. It gives the wine an angular personality, and adds to the austere finish. It is potentially a very fine Pinot Noir given its earthy black fruit character and meaty, mineral, peppery notes. The wine is medium-bodied and purely made, but the tannin is a legitimate cause for concern.
Ted Lemon told me that he did a saignee of all his 1997 Pinots because of high yields, and that all of these wines were scheduled to be bottled with neither fining nor filtration.
Many of the Pinot Noirs I have tasted from the Sonoma Coast's Hirsch Vineyard tend to be powerhouse Pinots that push tannin levels to the limit - at least for my palate. That seems to be the case even with the subtle touch of winemaker Ted Lemon.
As I said before, virtually the entire production of Littorai is sold via a mailing list ... readers take note. Tel. (707) 963-4762; Fax (707) 963-7332
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