Ted Lemon is not the first to exploit Pinot Noir in the Anderson Valley, but he is one of the best. In retasting the 1995 Pinot Noirs, the 1995 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is the most austere, with the firmest tannin, and the toughest texture. It needs another 1-2 years of cellaring, but it promises to offer a gutsy, meaty, mineral, and peppery personality. Although it does not possess the finesse of either the One Acre or Savoy Vineyard cuvee, it is an intriguing, larger-scaled Pinot Noir that should evolve for up to a decade. This small artisanal producer has moved to a barn/winery high on Howell Mountain, adjacent to the Black Sears Vineyard. Proprietors Heidi and Ted Lemon continue to turn out some of California's most elegant, flavorful, subtle wines. Littorai's wines are only available via their mailing list. Tel. (707) 963-4762; Fax (707) 963-7332