Ted Lemon is not the first to exploit Pinot Noir in the Anderson Valley, but he is one of the best. The most structured of the 1996 Pinot Noirs is the Hirsch Vineyard. I have tasted Hirsch Vineyard offerings from Littorai, Kistler, Siduri, and Whitcraft, and an imposing structure is a characteristic of this vineyard's wines. Littorai's Hirsch Vineyard exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, followed by a distinctive earthy, terroir character with the blackberry/cherry fruit pushed to the background. This is an intellectual rather than pleasure-oriented style of Pinot Noir. It is easy to admire the winemaking and quality of the wine, but it is a spartan style of Pinot. Give it a minimum of 1-2 years of cellaring. This small artisanal producer has moved to a barn/winery high on Howell Mountain, adjacent to the Black Sears Vineyard. Proprietors Heidi and Ted Lemon continue to turn out some of California's most elegant, flavorful, subtle wines. Littorai's wines are only available via their mailing list. Tel. (707) 963-4762; Fax (707) 963-7332