Schmitges’ generic 2009 Riesling – coming entirely from the cool, high-elevation Erdener Herrenberg – is now labeled “Vom Berg” and “feinherb” outside the U.S., in keeping with its author’s intention to give his cuvees names customers will remember and to encourage his countrymen to explore Riesling beyond the borders of Trockenheit. For this cuvee, Schmitges – who likes to think schematically – envisions a ration of at most three-to-one residual sugar-to-acidity, so that the results can virtually be treated as dry-tasting. Lemon and orange blossom in the nose here anticipate a bright, juicily citric palate that leads to a persistently refreshing finish. Treppchen-typical suggestions of sassafras and crushed stone add interest to a lip-smackingly good value for enjoying over the next 3-4 years. Schmitges says he restrained his urge to harvest these grapes, waiting to let the acids ripen, so that even if total analytical levels diminished, the proportion of efficacious tartaric acid increased. It certainly worked, considering the sappy vivacity on display here. And at 11.5% alcohol, this counts as light when compared with the corresponding Grauschiefer trocken bottling.“My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544
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