Schmitges’ 2007 Riesling – labeled feinherb in some markets, and coming strictly from the Herrenberg (high above the Treppchen) – smells fetchingly of orange blossom, talcum, and heliotrope. For this cuvee, he says he has adopted the working formula “residual sugar = acidity x 3.” It works in this instance! Possessing a luscious sense of juicy citricity, with subtly oily texture but no obvious bitterness; honeyed yet not in the least overtly sweet, this terrific value (on which Schmitges and his importers seem to have conspired to drop the price slightly) finishes impressively and both rich and refreshing. Enjoy it anytime over the next 3-4 years. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.
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