Schmitges’ 2008 Riesling feinherb smells Erden-typically of orange and grapefruit rind with brown spices, although it in fact originates in steep, riverside slate slopes of neighboring Losnich. Sappy, substantial (at 11.5% alcohol) and dry-tasting, I wonder whether it might not have been more elegant if left with a bit more residual sugar. Still, the combination of stuffing with refreshment and the persistence of citrus and spice are quite satisfying and should remain so for 3-4 years. Andreas Schmitges worked with a combination of spontaneous fermentation and judicious yeasting to render his dry wine-dominated 2008 collection, one which struck me as somewhat short-changing the vintage’s inherent virtues. An example of this is his decision to chaptalize his Riesling Grauschiefer up to 13% for the sake of stylistic continuity.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544
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