The 2008 Barolo Villero stands out first and foremost for its pure silkiness. An understated wine, the 2008 graces the palate with subtle fruit, expressive aromatics and a long finish supported by polished tannins. This is one of the more delicate, understated vintages of the Villero I can remember tasting. The aromas and flavors are still very much primary, but I wouldn’t wait too long on the 2008, as it doesn’t seem built for the super long haul. Still, I very much like the way the wine develops with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.
Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Baroli have closed down considerably since I tasted them from cask in November, 2011. The 2008s were just bottled a few months ago. I expect they will be more expressive in another 6-12 months. Overall, the 2008s are mid-weight wines built on grace and perfume. I don’t see the pure power of 2006 nor the opulence of 2007, to name two recent vintages, but wines that are built more along the lines of 2005. I expect the 2008s will age on their acidity rather than fruit, but these wines always have a way of transforming in bottle, so we will see. There is little doubt Nebbiolo did better here than Barbera in 2008, as was true throughout Piemonte. The 2008 Barberas are good, but average, or perhaps slightly better than that within the context of the estate’s long, established history.
Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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