The 2003 Barolo Villero isn’t as convincing. It presents a lovely core of sweet fruit and the typical mentholated, balsamic notes that are typical of this site, yet it comes across as somewhat awkward in its aromatics and disjointed in structure. With air it improved, but only to a limited extent. The higher sand content in the vineyard vis ? vis Santo Stefano and Monprivato seems to have penalized the wine in the scorching 2003 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2021.
Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca’ d’ Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn’t decided when he will release the 2001 Ca’ d’ Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos.
Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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