Mortet's 2006 Marsannay Les Longeroies mingles tart but ripe black raspberry fruit with pungent black pepper and brown spices on a much more substantial palate than presented by the corresponding Bourgogne. Because these vines are only a dozen years old, says Mortet, he has to be careful not to let their potential alcohol (in this instance, 13.5%) run ahead of the flavor, but here he has achieved a satisfying equilibrium between richness and vivacity as well as a distinctive vinous personality. I would plan to enjoy this bottling over the next 2-3 years. For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the "acid structure" of his 2006s – which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins – will help them age well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400