Another reference point estate in Vacqueyras, for many years these wines have given me considerable pleasure. Representing what might be called the bottled essence of Provence, they are always filled with peppery herbs dominated by black cherry and cassis fruit with hints of raspberries and smoked meats in the background. There is generally little difference between the Cuvee Classique and the Vieilles Vignes, with the latter wine possessing an extra dimension of nuanced texture, body, and depth. That’s the case with the following wines. The 2005 and 2004 vintages are different. The 2004 is a near-term wines, although it is certainly capable of evolving for 8-10 years. It is deep ruby-hued with beautifully pure notes of herbs, smoke, roasted meats, and black raspberry, cherry, and cassis fruit. The 2004 is softer and more charming than its 2005 counterpart. The 2004 can be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years. Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082; various American importers including Silenus Wines, Boston, MA; V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; Tropical Wines, Pompano Beach, FL; Import!, Madison, WI; and Elliott Bay Distributing, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 850-5059
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