An amazing effort is the 1998 Cote Rotie, which comes from three hillside vineyards - La Landonne, Les Grandes Places, and Cote Rozier. The wine's dark purple color is followed by an explosive, exotic bouquet of bacon fat, cherry liqueur, black olives, roasted meats, and toasty wood. This expressive, voluptuously-textured, full-bodied, powerful, concentrated Cote Rotie reveals some tannin in the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625
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