The 1997 Cote Rotie Cote Brune emerges from such top-flight vineyards as Rozier, La Landonne, and Les Grandes Places. It offers a spectacular, complex bouquet of roasted coffee, grilled meats, jus de viande, bacon fat, and gobs of black raspberry and cassis fruit. It also possesses the tell-tale roasted characteristic that gives Cote Rotie its name. Full-bodied, with modest alcohol (13.3%) for such a weighty, rich wine, it also has remarkable elegance and complexity for a wine so massive. A tour de force in winemaking, it can compete with even the single vineyard efforts from Marcel Guigal. It will drink well when released (because of low acidity), and last for 15-20 years. Importers: Bacchus Importers, tel. (410) 633-0400, Stacole Imports, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; Martin Scott Wines Ltd., Little Neck, NY; Ventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; Fine Vines, Maywood, IL and all the importers representing the selections of French broker, Patrick Lesec (Paris fax # 011 33 1 44 70 62 93)