This year, the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru includes Champonnets, and Mortet tells me that it was largely processed by hand, with the clusters cut up and only the berries on their pedicels retained. Exhibiting aromas of sweet berries, orange rind, warm spices and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, with a perfumed core of fruit, powdery tannins and an expansive finish.