Mortet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is drinking very well, offering up an expressive bouquet of dark berries, dried flowers, earthy soil tones and a judicious framing of cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, with an ample attack, satiny structuring tannins, juicy acids and a melting, open-knit profile. It's an elegant, charming wine from Arnaud Mortet's debut vintage, and readers with bottles in the cellar should consider pulling corks.