The Mikulski 2007 Meursault Charmes reflects this year’s last-picked vines, in the lower portion of this site, rich in fine particulate matter, and planted in 1930 and 1913. The oldest vines were bottled separately in the 2005 vintage, and might be again from 2008. Apple cider and toasted nuts and grain on the nose lead to a smoke-shrouded palate of white peach and grapefruit displaying more polish and creaminess than the corresponding Poruzots, but still finishing with a tactile sense of chalkiness and a gripping, invigorating amalgam of citrus zests and spices. Francois Mikulski began picking his 2007s the August 31 and harvest lasted a full two weeks. He performed “a bit more severe settling than normal” of solid matter to insure healthy musts, and while the vinous results are sometimes a bit texturally spare, as a group these wines boast consistently impressive distinctiveness of personality, energy, refreshment, and grip. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70